Monkeys and Ospreys

We have seen the first signs summer here; The Spider monkeys are coming down to the beach, the leaves starts falling of the trees and the Ospreys are back.

We have had a very nice rainy season with some good rainfalls, but typically after dark in the evening. We are now entering into the dry season and the other day we spotted the Spider monkeys at Isla Nacital for the first time this season. We are looking forward to visiting them a lot in the coming months, it is going to be interesting to see how many of the females have newborns this year.

The Osprey is a common winter resident from early September to April and we are now seeing several especially on our mangrove kayak tours. It is fascinating to sight an Osprey hunting for fish, typically by hovering, then plunging feet first into the water to catch their fish.

Bird Watching in Costa Rica

Many people come to Costa Rica specifically to see its wildlife, with the native birdlife being a particularly popular attraction. Indeed, many people who come with no intention of becoming a birdwatcher find themselves astonished by the beauty of iconic species like the Scarlet Macaw. About 850 species of birds live in Costa Rica and the region is considered to be particularly important for bird conservation. The variety of habitats in the region has allowed a wide range of species to thrive here. A selection of different habitats can be found just in the Nicoya Peninsula area. The cliffs and islands of the Nicoya Gulf are home to large colonies of seabirds, while the forest and mangrove swamps provide homes to diverse populations of other birds and wildlife. You will be able to spot a lot of different species even if you aren’t spending your days trying to track down the rarer species, but if you are serious about bird watching then you can spend the day touring the islands looking for colonies of spoonbills and frigate birds, or exploring some of the areas that have been set aside for conservation. The Palo Verde National Park, Curu Wildlife Refuge and Cabo Blanco National Park are all full of interesting species.

Species to Spot on the Nicoya Peninsula

Although there are hundreds of species of birds around Nicoya, there are some species that it is particularly worth looking out for:

  • ·Fiery-billed Aracari: a relative of the toucan, with which it shares its large, curved beak. A dark back is paired with a bright yellow belly and a red and yellow beak. Small groups of aracaris live together in old woodpecker holes, where they raise their chicks communally.

  • ·Violacious Trogon: a dark bird with a bright yellow belly and white tail feathers, this is a relation of the Resplendent Quetzal found in other parts of the country.

  • ·Clay-colored Robin: an inconspicuous brown bird that produces some of the most melodious birdsong heard during the rainy season. Local legend suggests that the rains only come because the robin calls them.

  • ·Scarlet Macaw: a distinctive and gregarious bird that is easy to spot thanks to its bright red, yellow and blue feathers, but rarely seen outside of nature reserves due to historic trapping for the pet trade. Red-lored parrots are more common, but their green plumage provides very effective camouflage, even when they gather as large flocks in the fruit trees.

  • ·Turquoise-browed Motmot: a brightly colored relative of the kingfisher, with which it shares its riverside habitat and burrow-nesting behavior. Blue and black plumage, with a particularly long and unusually shaped tail.

  • ·Rufous-tailed hummingbird: the most common species of hummingbird, a bright, jewel-like green color. Often found around Heliconias flowers.

  • ·Chachalacas: a large, brown bird that can be recognized by a call that sounds like its name.

  • ·Brown Pelican: the largest water bird in Costa Rica, its beak is unmistakable. Often seen in large flocks and diving for fish.

  • ·Frigate Bird: an elegant and acrobatic bird, with a dark body, white head and long, slender tail. Sometimes steals food from gulls and spends a lot of time hovering. Anhinga: known as the snake bird because it swims with its long neck above the water. A large, dark brown bird that can also be seen sunning itself after a dive.

  • ·Roseate Spoonbill: very distinctive, with its pink plumage and spoon-shaped bill.

  • ·Northern Jacana: a dark brownish bird with yellow spot on head. Its most interesting features are its extremely long toes, which enable it to walk across lily pads.

Preparing for Your Trip

Bird watching can easily be done while you are enjoying other activities in Costa Rica. If you take the time to look at your surroundings, you are sure to catch sight of some brightly colored birds in the trees, or a flash of feathers diving past you into the water. If you are serious about seeing the local birdlife, then you might want to plan ahead a bit more. You might want to plan a trip to one of the nearby nature reserves, or rent a kayak for the day so that you can get a closer look at the water birds.

You should also ensure that you think about any purchases that you might want to make while you are here. The list above is a good guide to some of the most spectacular species you can find in Nicoya, but you might want to get hold of a field guide so that you can identify more of the species. You will also want to invest in some good binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens if you intend to get a closer look at the birds. Although you will be able to get a good look at some of the larger and more brightly colored birds without binoculars, you will miss out if you find that you can’t see the parrots for the trees. If you don’t want to carry such heavy equipment on your flight, you will be able to find stores selling these types of equipment around the airports and the larger towns. It is sensible to make sure that you have plenty of the local currency available when you arrive in Costa Rica if you are hoping to buy any of this sort of equipment before you reach Nicoya, so checking for the best currency exchange services should be part of your vacation preparation. Failing to plan ahead could leave you facing unexpected costs, particularly when you need to buy expensive equipment.

Other Species

Although the birds of Costa Rica are spectacular, the rest of the flora and fauna in the region can be equally impressive. While you are searching for the elusive Jacana or Macaw, you may find yourself coming face to face with one of the more unusual inhabitants of the region. If you are quiet, you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of an elusive ocelot or jaguar, but if they elude you, there are plenty of anteaters, armadillos and sloths. You are most likely to see, or at least to hear, one of the four types of monkeys that live here: Capuchin, Squirrel, Spider and Howler Monkeys. At the right time of year, Ridley turtles can be seen nesting on the beaches of Ostional Nature Reserve. If you want to get even closer to the wildlife, you can try snorkeling. The fish are just as brightly colored as the birds.

Article by Julie Howlett

Ethics And Beauty: How Ecotourism Supports Costa Rica

How Ecotourism Supports Costa Rica

Article by: Julie Howlett.

Last year, 2.3 million people flocked to Costa Rica in search of all it has to offer. Although tourism can come with its own set of issues, Costa Ricans have embraced the chance to show visitors their beautiful country. In return, many tourists have shown their respect by engaging in “ecotourism”: not disturbing the fragile natural areas they visit, supporting local communities, and behaving responsibly as a citizen of the world. Ecotourism is quickly gaining momentum as a movement, and in Costa Rica – where nearly half of tourists take part in ecotourism – the effects are particularly striking.

Preserving Costa Rica’s Biodiversity

Despite covering only 0.03% of the world’s surface, Costa Rica nevertheless contains 4% of the world’s species, making it one of the most biodiverse countries in the world. However, this rich diversity is the result of a complex ecosystem which is easily disturbed by human interference. Although 21% of the country is protected as national parks, there are still many charismatic species in need of further protection: the beautiful scarlet macaws and quetzals, the inquisitive manatee and elusive tapir, the sea turtle, and even the jaguar are all threatened by hunting, habitat loss, and even poaching for the exotic pet trade.

Ecotourism benefits Costa Rica’s environment in two ways. Firstly, it creates employment and provides an economic alternative to environmentally damaging industries such as mining, logging, and agriculture. When landowners and the country itself can earn more by leaving forests pristine, wild areas and their inhabitants are much more likely to be protected. Yet it is possible for tourism to damage the environment, so the second benefit of ecotourism is that it allows visitors a chance to see the beauty for themselves while still walking lightly on the earth. Trained guides, environmentally sound planning, and carefully designed trails are only some of the ways the environment is protected against damage from visitors; through these measures, ecotourism can help safeguard Costa Rica’s incredible biodiversity. ‘In addition, many tourists are inspired to protect their own country’s natural splendor, creating a powerful domino effect throughout the world.

How To Be a Responsible Ecotourist

Due to the increased interest in environmentally sound tourism, some companies attempt to take advantage of the buzzwords without truly doing their part. If you’re on a noisy vehicle that’s leaking oil and crashing through the forest, your guide is unlikely to be running on sound environmental principles! Don’t be afraid to ask questions before booking, and read any information available on their environmental and community work (like Bahia Rica’s initiative support and eco-friendly tours).

There are also ways in which you can limit your own environmental footprint while visiting Costa Rica. In many ways, the most important step is to take care of yourself; tourism is like being a guest in someone’s home, and that involves both ensuring your own health and cleaning up after yourself. Prepare for unlikely emergencies by getting a checkup before your trip, carrying any important medication, and ensuring that your traveller’s insurance is the right choice for your trip. Tourists engaging in adventure sports (which may include kayaking, depending on your plan) may need to purchase additional coverage or an advanced plan so that their insurance isn’t considered void in the event of even an unrelated emergency. Plans for backpackers are also available, giving peace of mind to those travelling in a less commercial manner, so examine your options carefully before deciding on the right plan for you. Once you’re in Costa Rica, remember the campsite rule: leave everything the same, or better, than you found it. This means obeying rules around interacting with wildlife, staying on trails, and not collecting anything from the wild. Since community support is also critical, visitors can help their host culture by buying from local businesses and artists.

Working With the Community

Traditional tourism creates a strict divide between a country’s citizens and visitors. Particularly in small communities, this can lead to a system of inequality and hardship for those living in the area. As the awareness of this inequality has grown, many tourists have turned to ecotourism as a way of respecting their host communities and helping to preserve the very culture they’re interested in experiencing.

Due in part to the surge in ecotourism, Costa Rica has seen economic increases even during the recent world recession, allowing for social benefits like a 96% literacy rate, increased infrastructure, and employment in tourism industry jobs which are safer and better-paying than many other industries. Sustainable tourism also creates less obvious opportunities for the local communities – for instance, many visitors and tourism companies make donations to schools, environmental projects, and other worthy causes. Increased education and opportunities allow communities to support their own local businesses, artists, and children, retaining their own culture and making the country an even more attractive destination. With ecotourism on the rise, Costa Rica’s economy and people will continue to have opportunities to diversify, grow, and flourish.

Journal: 3-day kayak tour with camping

From our Sea kayaking journal – 2.- 4. April 2013
3-day kayak tour with camping

Julie from Scotland and Mike from USA are not experienced kayakers, but were looking very much forward to this overnight kayaking adventure. The first day we let the current take us out to Isla Tortuga. The second day we did some snorkeling and visited the Spider monkeys before camping at Isla Cedros. Mike and Julie were quite tired the last day so they were happy that the day’s route was short with several long stops. We returned to Bahia Rica after 3 beautiful days of kayaking and could log about 33 km.

Day 1 (15 km)
Overnight sea kayak tourAfter packing the kayaks and a quick kayak instruction at the beach we could start our 3 day kayak adventure. The current was strong and we could float like in a slow moving river the first part of the day. We stopped at the “tunnel beach” at Isla Nancital, but the swell was quite big, so it was only Vigdis that kayaked through the tunnel. The paddle over to Isla Quesera in Curu Wildlife Refuge was very calm and relaxing. However Mike and Julie were very happy to reach land as their arms were starting to get sore. It did not take them many seconds to get out of the kayaks and into the blue water to cool off. We had planned to have a longer stop with lunch here, but plans were changed as the restrictions in the park have become much stricter and you are only allowed to enter through the main gate or main beach.

Fortunately it was still early so we got in the kayaks again and kayaked over to Isla Alcatraz to have lunch there. We got a pretty strong head wind on our way over, so Julie and Mike got to feel the kayaking can be hard work too.

For the rest of the afternoon we relaxed at our private beach at Isla Alcatraz. Well almost private, we shared it with millions of hermit crabs. At last we made it over to Isla Tortuga and were exited to set up our hammock camp. We had dinner at the workers quarters and had the liberty of exploring a bit to see all the birds and animals they have on the island.

Day 2 (11 km)
Parrot on kayakAll of us slept really well in our Hennessy Expedition hammocks and were well rested apart from the sun burn that both Julie and Mike had gotten, so it was time for long sleeve shirts for them. We went straight out the rock in front of Isla Tortuga where Julie could rest on the floating dock while Mike and I went snorkeling. It is always nice to be at the snorkeling spot before anyone else gets there. The water was still murky, but there is so much fish around this rock that it is still really nice.

Half way over to Isla Nancital the water got quite choppy and as we stopped to make a kayak float to have a rest and some snacks Julie started to get sea sick. She had a very though time the last kilometers and I gave her some towing assistance. We kayaked through Boca the Tiburon (the passage between the two Negritos Islands) so that we could stop for lunch at the beautiful little white sand beach at Isla Nancital. After 2 good hours of rest we got into the kayaks to go looking for the Spider Monkeys, and we did not have to go far before we found them. It was a group of 4 females and one pregnant one came all the way down to the kayaks.

The water was calm and nice on the inside of the island and the last leg of the day’s kayaking was pleasant. We set up camp at Playa Langosta at Isla Cedros. Julie and Mike soon found some hammocks the local fishermen had made of old fishing nets and where in heaven. We had a relaxed dinner before Mike and I went out for a little evening kayak tour to see the bioluminescence. It was a dark night and the algae lit up the water around our kayaks. It is just an amazing phenomena and we agreed that Disney must have gotten the idea of Tinkerbell’s star dust from the bioluminescence.

Day 3 (7 km)

Sunrise Gulf of NicoyaWe woke up to the most stunning sunrise, and the beauty of sleeping in a Hammock on the beach is that you don’t even have to get out of “bed” to see it. We had a very relaxed morning treating sore muscles and sunburn and Julie and Mike were pleased that the day’s route was short. The lack of kayaking experience was felt in their shoulders and arms, but that is only normal and they did great and enjoyed the kayaking adventure a lot.

We looped around the small bird islands at the east side of Isla Cedros. It has still not rained this year so they are all covered in white from the bird shit. It looks like a thin layer of snow and frost.

We stopped for a rest at Gonzalos beach where we walked through the “hole in the wall” with water up to our waist. It is amazing to feel the power of the water just from the surge of the ocean swell through the hole. We also had to go up to the view point and look back at where we had come from.

From there we slowly made our way along the north shore of Isla Cedros looking at birds, crabs, iguanas and jumping rays. We stopped for lunch at Isla Jesucita. It was very nice to relax in the shade at Alex’s beach and again meet some of the local people living on these Pacific Islands.

At last we just had a short paddle home to Bahia Rica after lunch, which was good as the wind from south came up a bit and made us work harder.

All in all we had 3 great days, some hard work paddling, some smooth easy paddling and a lot of relaxing and exploring. Mike and Julie could proudly log about 33 km on their first real kayaking adventure.

See more pictures from this trip here.

Journal: 3-day kayak tour 24-26 feb

Sea kayaking journal – 24.- 26. February 2013

3-day kayak tour with camping

On this overnight kayaking tour we had a very different route than in the last one since the tide was the total opposite.  We had a nice and varied group with Bente and John Arild from Norway, Ann-Elin and Aldo from Norway and Costa Rica and at last Thomas and Anya from Switzerland.

Day 1 (20 km):
Sea kayaking Costa RicaAfter a good breakfast and an hour of prepping and packing 5 of us were ready to set out on the beautiful calm gulf water. Thomas and Anya would join us later as they could not leave work so early in the morning. The stretch over to Playa Hacienda Vieja at Isla San Lucas was spent getting to know one another and just taking in the scenery of the Gulf of Nicoya. Just before we reached the island the northern wind came up so we decided to take little longer break there and have lunch on the beach instead of kayaking around the island to where the prison ruins are. Just as soon as it came the wind died down again and we could continue up to the fascinating small island in the channel between Isla San Lucas and the main land. These are bird islands with lots of nice caves and cactus.

We continued south again along shore and beached at Playa Blanca for another nice swim and could enjoy the beach party they had there for some minutes before we continued to the calmness on Isla Gitana (or Isla Muertos as it was previously named as it was a cemetery island for the villagers on the main land). Here we were met by the caretaker Edgar. He immediately advised us not to set up our hammock under certain palm trees due to some birds that came there to overnight. As this was the spot we thought was nicest we ignored his advise… thinking a little bit of bird song in the morning won’t harm us. Lesson learned: always listen to the locals! As it got dark a bunch of Great-tailed Grackles came flying in and as Edgar predicted landed in those particular palm trees and yes they are noisy.

At last we Thomas and Anya did not join us as they had an emergency with the water situation at the hotel Thomas owns and they had to stay behind to sort that out.

After enjoying a good barbeque meal Aldo, Ann-Elin and I went out for a little night kayaking tour. The light from the full moon gave the surroundings a beautiful silver shade. In some parts the biolumencese was quite strong as well and we started splashing around to move the water in order to see it.

Day 2 (15 km)

Costa Rica sea kayakingWe started the day with a typical Norwegian breakfast before we explored the coast line across from Isla Gitana. The tide was nice and low so we could go ashore on the little tidal beach at Islas Pajaros when we got there. The morning was very calm and nice so it was nice with a refreshing dip in the water. We continued south to Playa Lorenzo where we split up with Ann-Elin and Aldo. They had to continue back to Bahia Rica as they had to catch the 2pm ferry back. Unfortunately Aldo could not get more time off from work.

Bente, John Arild and I continued into the Paquera mangroves and had lunch at the beach there before we floated up and down Rio Grande. Today the birds were numerous and floating down the river was like being in a bird zoo.

After a day filled with impressions and nice kayaking moments we beached at Isla Jesucita and set up our camp for the night. Alex and his wife made a nice Tico dinner for us and they even had some cold beer.

Day 3 (17 km)

Bahia Rica Costa Rica sea kayakingWe woke up to a nice and calm day and followed the current out to Isla San Pedro. We beached on the small tidal beach and got out our snorkeling gear. We swam in dense schools of sardines, and we spotted a big lobster, a moray eel and a lot of other fish.

We of course also had to visit Isla Nacital and the Spider Monkeys. We found them quite soon and as we continued kayaking along shore they followed us. Suddenly we realized that it was not them following us, but we them. They had discovered something up ahead and were moving very fast through the branches and over the steep cliff. It is amazing to watch these acrobatic animals.

At last we left the monkey and headed over to Isla Cedros and had lunch at Playa Langosta. The tide was coming in fast so we had to pull the kayaks up higher and higher on the beach.

On the way back to Bahia Rica in the afternoon we made a detour out to the small birdislands Islas Carretos.

We landed on the Bahia Rica beach after 3 days packed with impression and experiences. All in all we logged a bit more than 50 km.

To see more pictures from the 3-day kayak tour check our photo album on Facebook 

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